Evidence from earlier archaeological expedition’s shows that the use of stones such as turquoise, fetishes and shells came before Christian times. Turquoise in fact was discovered in Hohokam archeological excavations in the southwestern part of Arizona that date 200 B.C. Other discoveries have been made throughout central Mexico and in South American going to back to as early as 900 B.C.

Jewelry that is referred to today as Native American jewelry, southwestern jewelry, and Indian jewelry I so closely associated with the use of turquoise, both will be discussed in this paper.

Generally, the semi-precious stone we know as turquoise can be found in mineral deposits in the southwestern part of the United States. Turquoise can also be found in western South America. For the purpose if this article, we will concentrate of the Turquoise that is originally from the Southwestern part of the United States. Indians of prehistoric times would use turquoise in making beads and other hanging ornaments. This has been called the “beginning if Native American Jewelry”. The pieces that have been discovered are rather simplistic, but show the importance of this stone to early primitive Native American Indian cultures. There are strong indications that extensive prehistoric mining took place in the areas of the Morenci and Kingman regions of Arizona and in Colorado in the area known as Conejos. As well, other discoveries have been made in the Burro and the Cerillos regions of New Mexico.

For the purpose of this article, we will only explore the history as it relates specifically to the Southwestern part of the United States. Other areas where prehistoric Indians created jewelry will not be explored here. In addition to the use of turquoise by the prehistoric Indians, the Spiny Oyster shell “Spondylus Princeps” has been found in only off the coast of Baja California. This is a very important discovery since this beautiful shell has been abundantly found in excavations of the Anasazi, Hohokam and Mogollo of the southwest.

These discoveries are important because they show that the prehistoric Indian placed value and status on making jewelry. It also begins to paint a picture of economic development. This jewelry was more than likely used in trade and was also representative of social status.

The Navajo Indians were the most influential in the spread of early jewelry making techniques and were mainly responsible for spreading this craft throughout the Southwest to other tribes. The Pueblo and Hopi cultures of the Rio Grande were descended from the Anasazi. Mimbres and Mogollon are also believed to be descended from the Anasazi.

There are some in academia that says the Spanish started to influence jewelry making by the Pueblo cultures as early as the 14th century. But there are others that believe this influence did not occur until the early part of the 16th century. The Navajo can be characterized as nomadic within their “Denetah” meaning homeland. They did some minor farming, but only to the extent of planting a crop and leaving to grow on its own. Eventually, they would come back to harvest their crops. The Navajo and the Apache have been compared to the Mongols of the 12th and 13th centuries in this regard. These nomadic cultures not only raided but they were also able an willing to acquire and adapt that of the conquered that they wanted. Concha (concho) probably originated from their frequent contact with their Pueblo and Spainish neibors, as well as their “ketoh” or bow guards and beaded necklaces.

The Navajo came into regular contact with the Spanish from the 16th century and on. Sometimes it was friendly, and other times it was hostile. As the Spanish population continued to grow in the Southwest, the Navajos and the Plans Indians developed a greater appreciating for the use of jewelry as adornments and as signs of status to the Spaniards. As such, one can start to see the distinctive influence of some of the early Spanish designs on Navajo Plains jewelry. One can particularly see the use of the pomegranate blossom inspired from the Moorish crescent. This was the beginning of the design that is favorably known as the Squash Blossom Necklace.

During approximately 200 years of living closely to the Spanish, the Navajos would at times fight and conquer their neighbors and at other times trade and learn from them. In either case, they continued to be influenced by the Spanish. These first examples of Native American jewelry were the most valued of possessions for a Navajo family.

The Navajo became fond of the cross or rather the crescent shaped naja on a rawhide necklace. This however did not reflect the assimilation of Christianity, nor the Moorish influences but just as ornaments that were prized and valued for their intrinsic beauty and were symbols of power and wealth. The cross continued to evolve and influence Native American jewelry. The leather thong for wearing the necklace gave way to metal, stone, turquoise and coral beads. The Native American Indians of the Southwest were able to take and idea and a design and make it their own. So that today these designs are no longer Spanish, but uniquely southwestern and uniquely Navajo. This demonstrates the wonderful adaptability of the Plains Indians.

There are varying opinions as to when the Navajos actually started making silver jewelry. The two best studies that argue the chronology are by John Adair and the subsequent work of Joseph Stacy and Carl Rosnek. All agree that it was Atsidi Sani (Old Smith) that was the very first Navajo silver smith. The very beginning on Native American Indian jewelry can be attributed to Atsidi Sani. It has been said that he started to learn the jewelry making craft, silver smithing in the early part of the 1860’s.

The Navajo silver smith in the beginning mainly worked on concha (concho) type jewelry. This included silver concha belts, silver hair ornaments, silver bracelets, silver buckles, silver rings, silver belts, silver pins, silver necklaces and bow guards. By the 1890’s there were many Navajo silver smiths making many of these silver jewelry items. In just 20 years since Atside Sani begun, Native American jewelry evolved into what today is most appreciated as southwestern Native American Jewelry.

Concurrently, the Navajo in 1964, including the silver smith Atsidi Sani were forced into captivity by the United States Cavalry. Over 8,000 were sent into captivity is eastern New Mexico at Fort Sumner. This was the beginning of the United State\s government forcing the Navajo people to change from a nomadic way of life to a more sedentary life as farmers. This experiment wholly failed over the next four years. The Navajos returned to the nomadic way of life that was their custom. Many have said that Atsidi Sani first started to learn his silver making skills at this point in 1868 in the Four Corners area, the “Dinetah.” Even the Navajo leader, Chee Dodge took up silver smithing at this point.

Some of the earliest silver jewelry consisted of hammered work with file decoration. Turquoise was a very coveted and valued stone by the Navajo. Thus it can be said that turquoise began being used in Native American jewelry circa the 1880’s. Even though turquoise had been used along with coral and silver jewelry making prior to this time, it can be said that the Navajos began using turquoise in their silversmithing crafts at around this time. It is also known that Mexican silversmiths traveled the Southwest and traded with the Navajo Indians and the Pueblo Indians. These Mexican silversmiths were known as plateros. This trade also had a big influence on the Navajo and Pueblo silver smith.

Please check out the second part of this article titled "Origin of Materials for Silversmithing".